Decking the trem
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Clark Kent
Squier-Meister
Not if you already have a full size block. You'll probably be getting the most sustain possible already. It seems to me using another piece of metal would be better than using a chunk of wood though. If you're decking one of those thin pot metal cheapo blocks, well, you've got some upgrades to make before worrying if a piece of wood will effect sustain.
the simplest thing is to screw the tremolo claw screws in until the bridge is flat on the body. if you use a piece of wood too thick you may not get it to lay all the way down on the body. part of decking the bridge for me is to get the lowest action also.
You can 'deck' a trem by tightening the screws which hold the claw so that it moves nearer to the edge of the cavity... thus putting more strain on the springs and consequently pulling the bridge down onto the body. Some suggest adding extra springs (to 5), but it's usually ok with just 3.
It doesn't need a block of wood - that's used when trem 'blocking' (where a tapered block of wood is jammed between the trem block and the cavity).
Decking is fast and simple - loosen strings, tighten the screws, then retune.
As for using metal as a block, I'll leave that to others to answer - it should affect sound, but the degree of difference is subjective. There's varying views too on whether 'decked sounds better than blocked' or if floating is better.
The main reason for doing it is usually that if you're not using the trem it offers better tuning stability.
It doesn't need a block of wood - that's used when trem 'blocking' (where a tapered block of wood is jammed between the trem block and the cavity).
Decking is fast and simple - loosen strings, tighten the screws, then retune.
As for using metal as a block, I'll leave that to others to answer - it should affect sound, but the degree of difference is subjective. There's varying views too on whether 'decked sounds better than blocked' or if floating is better.
The main reason for doing it is usually that if you're not using the trem it offers better tuning stability.
mdparent03
Squier-holic
I don't use the trem on any of my guitars and deck them all by just tightening the claw and using 3 springs. I make sure not to over tighten either because that can make the bridge plate dent the top of the body. I do notice a big difference in tone when using a thin trem block to a full sized. Not so much the sustain as when you switch out saddles. I always recommend the MIM upgrade from Anthill music. One of the best $20 you can invest in any guitar.
Some do both... tightening the claw screws so it's tight to the body, then adding a wood block behind (nearest the tail) the trem block. Some also tape a stack of coins together instead of a wood block.
Here's a pic from elsewhere.
Attachments
mdparent03
Squier-holic
They both really do the same thing, which is immobilize the trem. When you "block" the trem, you can actually still have the bridge plate floating above the body.
The vintage-style Fender trem is clearly designed to rest on the body top. Look at the bevel on the front of the bridge plate - would be a foolish design if the idea was to raise pitch.
How I set up a vintage style Strta trem:
1. Tune
2. Tighten claw screws until bridge plate is clearly resting on body. Retune.
3. Back out each of the six mounting screws slightly and make sure they are screwed in til they just touch the bridge plate (you don't want them to compress down on the plate, as that will cause it to raise).
4. Hold the guitar in playing position and pick the low E. Finger a note on the A string (8-10 fret, anywhere really) and pull it what would be a full-step bend, while listening to the E string, and see if the pitch of the E drops at all. (Don't actually play the A)
5. If the E pitch drops, tighten the claw a little more and try again.
6. Once the E pitch just barely drops, your claw is tight enough to compensate for a full pitch bend on one string without affecting your tuning, probably good enough. Now your trem will sit on the body most of the time for better sustain/tone, even while you bend a note, and yet the trem is loose enough to still be easy to use for chord shimmers and such.
miker
How I set up a vintage style Strta trem:
1. Tune
2. Tighten claw screws until bridge plate is clearly resting on body. Retune.
3. Back out each of the six mounting screws slightly and make sure they are screwed in til they just touch the bridge plate (you don't want them to compress down on the plate, as that will cause it to raise).
4. Hold the guitar in playing position and pick the low E. Finger a note on the A string (8-10 fret, anywhere really) and pull it what would be a full-step bend, while listening to the E string, and see if the pitch of the E drops at all. (Don't actually play the A)
5. If the E pitch drops, tighten the claw a little more and try again.
6. Once the E pitch just barely drops, your claw is tight enough to compensate for a full pitch bend on one string without affecting your tuning, probably good enough. Now your trem will sit on the body most of the time for better sustain/tone, even while you bend a note, and yet the trem is loose enough to still be easy to use for chord shimmers and such.
miker
after the trem claw screws are in the position you desire you can snug the plate screw although it wont be necessary. . the front edge has a bavel if you over tighten the back will try to rise up.
The answer is in the earlier reply which said:
They shouldn't be any tighter or looser whether the bridge is decked or floating.
Blackdogxx
Squier Talker
decking versus stabilizing the trem block
By using pennies in the cavity on either side of the trem block, you can stabilize it not to move the tremolo. I used a couple of drops of archery glue to stick them together and also to stabilize them in the cavity. A Hipshot Tremsetter is about $30 and needs an installation with drilling. I switched to the steel GFS trem block (careful it will fit!) and that is a big improvement.
By using pennies in the cavity on either side of the trem block, you can stabilize it not to move the tremolo. I used a couple of drops of archery glue to stick them together and also to stabilize them in the cavity. A Hipshot Tremsetter is about $30 and needs an installation with drilling. I switched to the steel GFS trem block (careful it will fit!) and that is a big improvement.
Stratatattat
Squier-holic
I've heard of using coins too. Personally, I just deck it and forget it.
